The MOuntains

Book it now
Thank you! Your submission has been received!
Oops! Something went wrong while submitting the form.
Choosing which mountain to ride each day is one of the best problems to have in Hakuba. With nine different resorts spread across the valley, each with its own character and strengths, you could spend weeks here and still not explore everything. If you're wondering about lift ticket options for accessing these mountains, check out our other article on lift tickets for a detailed breakdown of your choices. Of course, our crew at Starfall is always happy to give personalized recommendations based on the conditions, your skill level, and what kind of experience you're after that day.

Happo one
First things first: it's pronounced "oh-neh," not "one" like the number. Happo is the biggest resort in the Hakuba Valley and the closest to Starfall Lodge, just a 20 to 30 minute walk if you decide to skip our morning shuttles and stretch your legs instead. The mountain can feel like a maze at first, with four different base areas to navigate: Nakiyama, Shirakaba (where you'll find the main gondola), Kokusai, and Sakka. Each base accesses different parts of the mountain, so it's worth studying the trail map to understand how they connect.

This is traditionally more of a skier's mountain, and we don't usually recommend it as a first choice for snowboarders. The terrain tends to get moguled out quite quickly after fresh snow, which can be challenging on a board. The trail selection leans heavily toward red and black runs (intermediate and advanced), making it less than ideal for beginners who might find themselves limited to just a few suitable slopes. That said, if you're an experienced skier looking for challenging terrain and don't mind working for your turns, Happo delivers some of the most technical skiing in the valley. The views from the top are spectacular on clear days, with the Japanese Alps stretching out in every direction.
Beautiful open runs with a view at Iwatake resort
GORYU / Hakuba 47
These sister resorts, connected at the top, offer arguably the best variety for all skill levels in Hakuba. Together they boast the longest run in the valley, stretching from the top of Goryu all the way down to the base of 47, a leg-burning descent that'll have you ready for that après beer. Goryu shines for beginners with excellent learning areas at both the base and the Iimori zone, where the slopes are gentle and wide enough to build confidence without intimidation.

47 is home to the valley's premier terrain park, featuring a sizeable halfpipe and features designed for every level of progression, from first-time park riders to those throwing down serious tricks. The resort also offers fantastic tree riding opportunities, with some zones open to all and others restricted to TRZ (Tree Riding Zone) members. You can join the TRZ program by attending a safety briefing at the base in the morning, after which you'll receive an armband granting access to additional tree zones. It's free and absolutely worth doing if you're planning to explore the trees. The combination of groomed runs, park features, and tree zones makes this a mountain where you could easily spend multiple days without getting bored.

IWATAKE
Once Hakuba's best-kept secret, Iwatake has firmly established itself as a must-visit resort, especially since the opening of their state-of-the-art 10-person high-speed gondola in 2024. This infrastructure upgrade means minimal wait times even on busy days, maximizing your time on snow. The front side gondola laps might just be the best in Hakuba, with multiple routes of varying difficulty all funneling back to the gondola base, allowing groups of different abilities to ride together while choosing their own adventures.

The back side opens up into beautiful wooded trails and includes some short, beginner-friendly tree riding sections perfect for those wanting to try off-piste riding without committing to anything too intimidating. Later in the season, they set up a small terrain park that's perfect for learning basic tricks. What really sets Iwatake apart is how welcoming it is to non-riders. The stunning Mountain Harbor cafe and bakery offers panoramic views that'll make anyone's Instagram feed pop, there's a free kids' play area, the resort is dog-friendly, and they offer activities like snowshoe tours and snow buggy rides. If someone in your group needs a rest day or doesn't ski, this is where they should spend it.
Tree runs at Tsugaike Kogen
TSUGAIKE KOGEN
Tsugaike is a paradise for beginner and intermediate riders, featuring one of the largest flat learning areas in Japan between the mid-station and base. Absolute beginners can spend hours here getting comfortable without worrying about accidentally ending up on terrain beyond their ability. The journey from the peak to the base offers one of the longest continuous descents in the valley, mixing green and red sections with a special wooded beginner trail option for those not quite ready for the steeper red pitches.

For advanced riders, Tsugaike hosts the DBD, widely considered the best tree riding zone in Hakuba. Access requires watching a safety video and signing a waiver at the Tsuga-no-mori restaurant at the summit, after which you'll receive an armband for entry. The DBD offers everything from gentle glades to steep chutes, all within a controlled and patrolled area. Later in the season, Tsugaike sets up an impressive terrain park that attracts serious park riders from across the valley. The combination of beginner-friendly terrain and advanced tree zones makes this a mountain where families and groups with mixed abilities can all find something to enjoy.
CORTINA
Known as the powder paradise of Hakuba, Cortina sits at the northern end of the valley with a higher base elevation, typically receiving more snow than other resorts. The mountain essentially consists of one massive bowl with two ungroomed black runs cutting through it, while the rest of the bowl opens up for unrestricted tree riding. This is advanced terrain only, but for expert riders, the tree zones here offer some of the most consistently good snow in the valley.

However, Cortina's reputation has become something of a double-edged sword. The secret is well and truly out, and the aging lift infrastructure simply can't handle the crowds that descend on powder days. It's not uncommon to wait over an hour in cold, exposed lift lines when the snow is good. Honestly, we don't really recommend it anymore, as you can find equally good tree riding at Tsugaike's DBD or 47's tree zones without the soul-crushing wait times. Your precious powder day is better spent actually riding than standing in line.
Cortina tree riding
NORIKURA
This underrated gem offers a refreshing change of pace from the busier resorts. The runs here are shorter but wide open, perfect for beginners and intermediate riders who want to practice their technique without dodging crowds. The laid-back atmosphere and lack of lift lines mean you can rack up run after run, making it an excellent choice for those focused on improving their skills. It's also a great option when other resorts are packed during peak weeks, as many visitors overlook Norikura in favor of the bigger names.

Sanosaka, Kashimayari, and Jiigatake
These three smaller resorts at the southern end of the valley offer a completely different experience from the main Hakuba resorts. With a decidedly local feel, no crowds, and cheaper lift tickets, they're perfect for families and beginners who want a relaxed day on the snow. The terrain is gentle and forgiving, the pace is unhurried, and you'll likely share the slopes with local families rather than international tourists.

We don't run direct shuttles to these resorts, but we can drop you at the bus terminal where you can catch the Hakuba Valley buses to reach them. They're worth considering if you want to escape the crowds, have young children learning to ski, or simply fancy experiencing a more traditional, low-key Japanese ski resort atmosphere. Don't expect high-speed lifts or mountain-top restaurants with craft coffee, but do expect friendly staff, affordable prices, and surprisingly fun terrain for a mellow day.

Each mountain in Hakuba has its own personality and strengths, and conditions can make one resort shine while another struggles. Don't be afraid to ask our team for daily recommendations based on weather, snow conditions, and what you're hoping to achieve that day. The beauty of staying in Hakuba is that you're never locked into one mountain, so take advantage of the variety and explore what each resort has to offer.
The view from Sanosaka resort over Lake Aoki
GET IN TOUCH
(+81) 80-2965-7229
bookings@starfall-lodge.com
Starfall Lodge
5839-1 Hokujo
Hakuba
Nagano, 399-9301
Thank you! Your submission has been received!
Oops! Something went wrong while submitting the form.
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM
STARFALL LODGE
(+81) 80-2965-7229
〒399-9301 長野県北安曇郡白馬村北城5839-1
Copyright 2025 Starfall Lodge. Website development by dekai.dev, design by Hannah Sutton