EATING OUT
IN HAKUBA

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Hakuba's food scene has evolved dramatically over the years, offering an impressive range of dining options that goes well beyond typical ski resort fare. From authentic Japanese teishoku sets to perfectly crafted ramen bowls, the town delivers culinary experiences that rival what you'd find in major Japanese cities. While you'll likely grab lunch on the mountain most riding days, we definitely recommend venturing into town on rest days to explore the excellent cafes that only open for lunch service.

The surge in tourist numbers over recent years has created an interesting challenge for Hakuba's dining scene. The town simply hasn't been able to open new restaurants or expand existing ones fast enough to meet demand, which means getting into popular spots requires a bit of strategy and forward planning. Gone are the days of wandering into any restaurant at 7pm and finding a table. Understanding how dining works in Japan will significantly improve your chances of eating where you want, when you want.

Most Japanese restaurants in Hakuba operate on a refreshingly simple first-come, first-served basis with no reservations accepted. You'll often see a clipboard by the door where you write your name and party size, then wait to be called. A handful of restaurants, mostly Western-style establishments, have started using online reservation systems like TableCheck, which can be worth checking for special occasions or larger groups.
An incredible bowl of ramen served at Tottsuan
Japanese restaurant hours can catch visitors off guard. Unlike many Western ski towns where kitchens stay open all day, most restaurants here close between lunch and dinner service, typically reopening around 5:00 or 5:30pm. This isn't the time for a late lunch or early dinner; you'll need to plan around these schedules. Our best advice for securing dinner is to decide in the morning where you want to eat, confirm it's open that day (many restaurants close one or two days per week), and aim to arrive right when they open for dinner service. Even with this level of organization, you might still wait a bit at popular spots, but you're almost guaranteed a table within a reasonable time.

If you're traveling with a large group, be prepared to adapt. Japanese restaurants tend to be intimate spaces, many seating just 10 to 20 people total, often at tables configured for four. Large groups will likely need to split up or choose one of the Western-style venues that can accommodate bigger parties. This isn't unfriendliness; it's simply the reality of small restaurant spaces and the Japanese preference for intimate dining environments.
A delicious pork katsu teishoku meal served at Emu
The dining pace in Japan might feel rushed compared to leisurely Western restaurant culture. The etiquette here is to order promptly after being seated, eat when your food arrives (which is usually quickly), and vacate your table once finished to make room for waiting customers. It's perfectly fine to order a beer or sake with your meal, but lingering over drinks isn't the norm. In Japanese culture, if you want to sit, drink, and chat for hours, you head to a bar or izakaya after dinner. Check out our nightlife post for the best spots to continue your evening.

Don't let language barriers or unfamiliarity deter you from trying local restaurants. Most places in Hakuba have English menus, and if chopsticks aren't your strong suit, asking for a fork is completely acceptable. The staff are used to international visitors and generally patient with ordering. If you have specific dietary restrictions or are looking for something particular, definitely ask our crew for recommendations. While Japan can be challenging for certain dietary needs, we'll do our best to point you in the right direction.

Of course, you don't have to eat out every night. The spacious Starfall kitchen is available for guest use, and the nearest supermarket is just a 7-minute walk away. Cooking your own meals can be a nice break from restaurant dining and significantly easier on the budget.
OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS
Emu - This is quintessential Japanese comfort food at its finest. Emu serves teishoku (set meals) that deliver big, satisfying portions at reasonable prices. Their chicken and pork cutlets come crispy and golden, while the shogayaki (ginger pork) and gyoza sets arrive with rice and a small bowl of ramen on the side. The katsu curry bowls are legendary among locals and visitors alike. Our favorite: chicken katsu curry that'll fuel you through any afternoon. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Tuesdays.

Tottsuan - Hands down the best bowl of ramen in Hakuba, possibly competing for best in Japan. Their secret is a 12-hour slow-simmered broth that comes in four distinct flavors, each rich and complex enough to convert even casual ramen fans into devotees. The noodles have perfect texture, and the toppings are generous. Our favorite: spicy miso ramen with an added ajitama (soft-boiled egg) for extra richness. Open lunch and dinner, closed Wednesdays.

Takahashi-ke (Ramen Gyoza Beer) - While they serve excellent traditional ramen, the real star here is their mazesoba, a lesser-known soupless noodle dish that you mix together like a Japanese take on bolognese. Their handmade gyoza are phenomenal, with crispy bottoms and juicy fillings that pair perfectly with beer. Our favorite: spicy tantan mazesoba with a side of dumplings to share. Open lunch and dinner, closed Thursday and Friday.
Tom Sawyer - Our go-to izakaya and one of the few places that handles larger groups well. True to izakaya style, you order multiple small plates and drinks to share, creating a social dining experience that can stretch for hours. Their menu spans fried foods, fresh salads, mini pizzas, and creative Japanese fusion dishes, all at prices that won't break the bank. Our favorites: karaage (fried chicken), fried lotus root, and their surprisingly addictive salted cucumber. Dinner only, closed Sundays.

Zen - Soba noodles are Nagano's pride, and Zen does them justice with handmade noodles from local buckwheat. Getting a table here is notoriously difficult, especially at dinner, so lunch is your best bet. They also serve excellent tempura and some izakaya dishes in the evening. Our favorite: tenmori soba set with cold dipping noodles and crispy tempura. Open lunch and dinner, closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

Miyama - Conveniently located right outside Starfall's front door, this yakiniku restaurant lets you grill your own meat and vegetables over charcoal at your table. It's interactive dining at its best, perfect for groups who want to cook, eat, and socialize at their own pace. Dinner only, closed Mondays.

Kikkyoya - This sushi and sashimi restaurant delivers exceptional quality at fair prices, with some izakaya options rounding out the menu. Their lunch sets are incredible value and worth planning a rest day around. Our favorite: the ¥1000 lunch set that would cost three times as much in any major city. Open lunch and dinner, closed Wednesdays.
Sounds Like Cafe chicken burger
Sounds Like Cafe coffee
BOS - A tiny family-run okonomiyaki and yakisoba specialist that seats a maximum of 12 people. The wait can be long both for a table and for your food, but the perfectly griddled okonomiyaki and expertly seasoned yakisoba make it worthwhile. Our favorites: pork okonomiyaki and mix yakisoba. Dinner only.

Calico/Blizzard/The Rabbit Hole - These larger Western-owned establishments serve familiar food and drinks in spaces that can accommodate big groups. While not traditionally Japanese, they fill an important niche for those craving a taste of home or needing to seat 10+ people together. Open continuously from breakfast until late, every day throughout winter.

Sounds Like Cafe - Some of Hakuba's best coffee paired with excellent Western-style food. Their burgers are outstanding, and they're one of the few spots offering proper brunch options like eggs benedict. Arrive early as they're perpetually popular with the international crowd. Our favorites: chicken burger and their legendary carrot cake. Lunch only, closed weekends.

What's Good Cafe - This hidden gem combines great coffee with fresh-baked sweets, fluffy pancakes, creative waffle sandwiches, and Instagram-worthy acai bowls. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, perfect for a lazy rest day lunch. Our favorite: the chicken waffle sandwich that somehow perfectly balances sweet and savory. Lunch only, closed Wednesday and Thursday.
Each of these restaurants offers something special, whether it's authentic Japanese flavors, comfort food from home, or that perfect coffee to start your day. Don't be discouraged if your first choice is full; consider it an opportunity to discover your own hidden favorite. The key to eating well in Hakuba is flexibility, timing, and a willingness to embrace both the familiar and the wonderfully foreign.
GET IN TOUCH
(+81) 80-2965-7229
bookings@starfall-lodge.com
Starfall Lodge
5839-1 Hokujo
Hakuba
Nagano, 399-9301
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STARFALL LODGE
(+81) 80-2965-7229
〒399-9301 長野県北安曇郡白馬村北城5839-1
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